Marc Jacobs: grown-up sexy american with euro leanings

Sep 28, 2007 at 9:30 p.m. ET

Marc Jacobs unveiled his new collection inspired by The Conformist, Bertolucci's masterpiece about sex and politics in fascist Italy.

The color palette included serious blacks and reds, plus a smattering of royal colors: cobalt, purple, forest green, and gold. In 1971 The Conformist won a Golden Globe award and an Oscar with it's somber visual tone comprised of angles, shapes, and shadows, and if Fashion Week were to hand out awards, Marc Jacobs' delicious collection would be a hot contender. Making the connection between 1930s pared-down gleaming elegance and the 1970s update of the same forms, Jacobs seamlessly brought to life a world filled with narrow and precise silhouettes, as seen in the cut of the clothes as well as the wide brimmed hats, cloches, and fedoras that he paired with them. Jacobs does classic American looks with a European sensibility In less than 24 hours since the show ended, much has been said about the radical departure from the chunky layering, bows, and frills of Jacobs' recent collections. I'm less interested in analyzing what Jacobs does or doesn't have to prove; the terms gleefully flying about today to describe his new collection include "bourgeoise simplicity", "adult", "sharp" and "austere". I will simply say that it's nice to see someone doing a more grown-up version of sexy clothes for women this season. Jacobs takes a bow at the end of his extraordinary presentation.

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