Like many things in life, there are unwritten rules when it comes to designer jeans. I'm not agreeing nor disagreeing, but merely pointing out that wearing an expensive well-made pair of jeans is not enough to get you on the inside track of fashion cool. I was quickly brought up to speed by jeans aficionado Leah Eckelberger, who owns a small premium denim shop in Boston called Jeans Therapy. Leah's store is dedicated to smaller hard to find brands, labels that are less than three years old and what she refers to as "next generation" denim. Her store veers away from mainstream brands such as Seven, Citizens of Humanity, and True Religion, and stocks brands such as Paige, 575, Oligo Tissew, Farmer, Earnest Sewn, Tavernitti, Wrangler 47, Carpe Denim, Ubi, Da'Mage and Habitual. Leah works hard to find underground brands that stay under $200. After that she looks for quality, fit, style, and brand background. She wants to know what the philosophy of the designer is and what lifestyle they're about to determine their overall appeal.

If this list of qualifiers sounds as discerning as criteria for a fine wine, you're not far off the mark. According to jeans designer Jason Trotzuk, whose newly launched label Fidelity neatly checks off on all the above prerequisites, many hours of prep and refinement go into a great pair of jeans. Jason believes that a pair of jeans should be enjoyed as one would enjoy a fine glass of wine--the color, the character, and all the subtleties that make up something very special. Visit their website at www.fidelitydenim.com.

Immediately addressing the fact that buying a good pair of jeans requires taking out a small loan, Jason told me that making this investment is well worth it if you understand that a great pair of jeans is arguably the most important purchase in a woman's wardrobe. "Ultimately, I like to think of jeans as the Holy Grail of a woman's wardrobe. Jeans are no longer those things that you used to steal from your boyfriend. Today's jeans have been brought to a whole new level. They've been refinished and refined; they're cut differently, they fit differently, and when you wear them and you look all hot and amazing, you feel different. It's a badge of confidence you can't get from anything else--except maybe a 5 carat diamond." Jason feels that jeans made from the finest crafted denims in the world deserve a smooth and excellent finish. "Not having the right wash and finishing on a great pair of jeans is like having only a primer coat on a Porsche or forgetting the coveted LV symbols on a Louis Vuitton handbag."

It turns out that "jeans people" are just as obsessed as any other niche in the fashion world. Leah told me, "I loved jeans but I'm 5'1 and not exactly a model figure. I'm also Asian so I have a flat butt. The experiences of trying on jeans and buying them were kind of traumatic for me. I was relegated to the junior's section of Macy's." This experience inspired her to open a store that made shopping for jeans therapeutic and fun, but before she did that she enrolled in an adult education sewing class and taught herself how to reattach a jeans hem. She would buy jeans and literally rip them apart. "I wanted to see how they were made. I wanted to see the difference in the fabric. I wanted to see what set apart an Italian denim from a Japanese denim; how high the lycra content should go. I also studied magazines, looked through racks of jeans in stores, picked sales reps brains, wrote notes on things I liked and didn't liked in terms of jeans, fit, style."

And where does this leave the big jeans companies that started as the work wear of the 20s and 30s and morphed into the rebellion wear of the 50s and then the hippy wear of the 60s? For Lee Jeans, founded in 1889, it means taking jeans straight from their archives and boldly updating the fit, fabric, finish, and details. According to Jennifer Clarke, Lee Authentics Production Manager, the 101 Series was created with an edgy vintage feel for women who want something unique and are willing to pay over $170 for a pair of jeans. This line concentrates on only two fits: one very loose and one very low and straight, while their alternative XLine focuses on flattering a woman's figure. All I know is that my 23 year old uber-hip intern saw the new Lee look book and commented that she would wear everything the model had on: the shirt, the shoes, the jacket, the jeans. If you knew my intern, you would understand what a high compliment this is. Lee Authentic, while not an underground brand, is definitely doing something right. Visit their website at www.leeauthentics.com.

There was a time when a president and a truck driver might own the same brand of jeans--they were a democratic equalizer of class and wealth. But today nothing sums up status, fashion savvy, and taste quicker than the jeans a woman is wearing. Whether you decide to support new indie jean makers or opt for the nostalgic brands that were always in the background of democratic culture, I would advise paying attention to getting the best cut for your body type. Despite the raging debate among jeans experts over pocket placement and whether to buy tight or not, there are a few fail-proof things to keep in mind when shopping for the latest and greatest denim offerings for fall.

Mary Jo's fall jeans wisdom:

Flattery will get you everywhere:
The Boot Cut is the most universally flattering style for all figures, but if you must have fall's trendy Trouser jeans or Stovepipe legs, there are a few things to keep in mind. Trouser Cut jeans accentuate the hip and thigh area. Having the pockets sewn down by a tailor will help minimize the bulk or better yet, opt for a five pocket jean with a wider leg. Stovepipe/drainpipe legs are best worn by tall thin women, but no matter how tall you are, stay with dark denim and pair them with a dark high heel. Keep in mind that a straight leg jean rather than a tapered leg will still give you an edgy look and isn't quite so difficult to wear.

Slim thighs
Contrary to popular belief, flare legs do not slim your thighs. If you wear flare legs, make sure to pair them with a heel. The trick to thin thighs is all in the outseam. Try and find a jean where the outseam is brought toward the front of the jean to give the illusion of a slimmer thigh.

Take it easy with back pockets
While you need some sort of pocket on the butt, proportion is critical. Stay away from pockets that sit too low and cut into the seat crease (where the bum meets the leg) this will emphasize your butt and shorten your legs--not a pretty picture!

Get a cute butt
As far as I'm concerned this is the whole point of expensive jeans. There should not be any excess fabric at the bottom of your seat. The right pair of jeans will hold and cup your rear much like an excellent bra will. And that's the bottom line!